Oceania Africa Cruise May 2024
May 15 EWR United Polaris Lounge
Waiting for our flight to Cape Town–5 days there, then an Oceania Cruise up the coast of Africa. Will be so interesting!
Kind of interesting leaving at night and also on United. Normally, we fly on one of their partners, but when I booked flights, I first booked using AA points–BA connecting through LHR, OK, but expensive fees, $1000. Then I booked the most circuitous route I could find with UA, including close connections, EWR to Washington, DC, to Ethiopia to South Africa, hoping one of the legs would change and the connections wouldn’t work. So that is exactly what happened and I was able to change to this DIRECT flight–which would have been an egregious number of points to book. So yay!
The flight is quite full and we could only get window seats far apart–I am in the second section and on the port side; Austin is up front, but starboard. A very long flight, nearly 14 hours. We’ll have a late dinner, hopefully sleep, and arrive in Cape Town around 5:00.
We’re staying at the Taj Cape Town with lounge access so we can go there, if we land on time, for a drink or two and snack. The next day we’re on a full day tour of the Cape. A couple on our cruise, we don’t know them, will be joining us.
So onward, already had a glass of champagne and little sandwich.
//The plan took off late sadly. I watched “Zone of Interest” about the Commander of Auschwitz and family, very brutal.
Had nuts, shrimp, steak, OK, not great, French sav blanc, OK, tried to sleep a little, not very successful, had a little grilled cheese and tomato soup, watched “Past Lives”–two Koreans who were childhood friends, reconnect as adults. Then one episode of “The Wire” a well regarded TV show about crime in Baltimore.
Friday, May 17
Yesterday, before landing, we had a little breakfast, eggs, potatoes, sausage. I declined coffee because it was about 4:30 PM Cape Town time so too late for coffee.
Saw some of Cape Town as we flew over. Then from touchdown to airport exit, one of the quickest we’ve ever had. Very quick from touchdown to the bridge, then the jet bridge opened almost immediately, so we were quickly off the plane; basically no wait for immigration, and quick exit afterwards. Our driver was waiting, about a 20 minute ride into town. Quick hotel check in, Taj CapeTown, so even though our plane was late, we were able to go right up to the lounge for about 30 min to have some wine and little snacks before going to our room. This was our “dinner.”
We weren’t sure if we were “upgraded” or not but as soon as we opened our door, we knew we were, a huge and beautiful corner suite, very large, and with a view of Table Mountain–yeah! I sent everyone a video, also a note from the manager, cookies, and chocolates on our pillow.
We were able to stay awake until around 8:30-9:00 and I slept a little fitfully, but got enough. In fact, didn’t wake up until 7, when I meant to be up at 6. Austin slept fine. He developed shingles just before we felt and luckily went to City MD which immediately diagnosed it and he got some medicine to keep it from spreading, but it hurts so he was uncomfortable.
Anyway, we quickly got up and down to “Mint” for BF, extensive menu to order or a buffet which we used which was quicker. A few Indian dishes, then all the normal stuff, egg, sausage, yogurts, fruit, breads, etc., spread across two rooms.
Our tour pick up was at 9 so we were down in the lobby by then. Via WhatsApp, we learned that Pat and Frank had been picked up at the Victoria and Albert hotel and I reiterated we were at the Taj, so about 15 minutes later, he was here. We had a full day tour of the Cape out to Cape of Good Hope and back.
Our driver/guide was excellent, not too much of an accent, easy to hear, he had a little head mic to amplify, good sense of humor, exceptionally knowledge.
We went to the Bo Kaap area just by our hotel, got out and walked a little, then went driving along the coast. Unfortunately it was very foggy so we couldn’t see much and at several “scenic” spots, there was only fog or mist, with some obscured landmarks. So we saw nothing at Camps Bay before going to Seal Island. We took a small boat out for a total of about 45 minutes round trip, big waves, very rocky, waves crashing over the rocks with the seals, but we could see them.
Then Chapman’s Peak, and the road around, still very foggy, Noordhook Farm village where we stopped for coffee, decided not to have lunch. Before reaching the Cape, we stopped at an ostrich farm to see ostriches raised for eggs and meat. There were also wild ostriches in the park. Then onward to the Cape of Good Hope for our photo opportunity and then to the Old Cape Point lighthouse. We took the funicular up and back, saw some nice views out over the water.
At the lighthouse, we got some chips and cookies for a little snack then headed to Boulders Beach penguins. We stopped here, paid, then walked out along the crowded boardwalk to see the little penguins. Same ones we’d seen in NZ.
Saw some “chicks”, brown, fluffy, the parent sitting next to them for warmth and some young penguins with spots on their belly. Very cute. Sun out, lovely pics.
Passed by Muzenburg Beach, shark attacks here, and the large navy base, built by the British and given to South Africa.
From here we headed back arriving at around 4:30. So a very nice, full day. It would have been a longer day if we’d taken time for lunch or spent more time at the lighthouse or the scenic shops, but we did everything we wanted to.
Pat and Frank are easy travelers, they’ve done a lot of traveling and are easy going. She walks with a cane so no hiking. They are going shark diving tomorrow.
When we got to our room, it was not made up but our mistake because I had mistakenly pushed a button which showed “do not disturb.” Anyway, they came right away when I called. Austin went down for a swim and I went to an ATM to get some ZAR, then hung out in the lobby.
Saturday
We went to the lounge for some wine before dinner and we talked to a man of Pakistani origin from the UK; the lounge was so crowded we had to share a table with him. Then went down to the hotel restaurant Bombay Brassiere. Very lovely setting with Indian inspired wall coverings, a very nice server. Had Takara sav blanc wine, same as in the lounge. We had a very excellent Indian meal, lamb Nihari, slow cooked lamb shank, absolutely falling off the bone in a delicious sauce, plus very nice fluffy rice, garlic butter naan, and a spicy cauliflower dish with peas, all very yummy!
Up this AM around 6. I slept very well but Austin said he didn’t. For BF, had poached egg, some bacon and some Indian soup and bread and latte. Very nice.
As our first adventure today, we got tickets for Table Mountain, which the concierge booked for us, then took an Uber up to the cable car station.
Then up the sheer side at the mountain. It was a clear sunny day with some low mist over the water and a little sunrise pink in the sky, very pretty.
We spent a while walking around on top, there were several paths and lookouts. Mostly the path was on smooth rock pavement or relatively smooth rocks to step on but a little climbing up and down in a few rocky places. Very nice views out over the city. It was a little cool to start then warmed up. Many rocks with lichens all around. We went back down in the cable car–it’s weird because the cable car floor rotates so while you’re in it, you get 360 degree views out of all sides.
At the lower station, we got iced lattes then got another Uber to take us to the botanic gardens.
This was on the other side of table mountain and also the road going down had construction so we had to wait a while, so it took about 30 minutes to get there.
These botanic gardens are huge with large mature trees, grassy areas, flowering proteas, a “canopy” tree walk on a suspended bridge that took you up to the tree canopy. Also Cycads and may other plants, all very meticulously maintained and not crowded at all.
A very nice seeing warm day. We ended at the tea garden and had high tea for two. Just wow! It was so delicious–very bite of everything and we could only eat about half. Delicious nutty wheat bread cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches, little warm spinach quiches, large warm fluffy scones with butter, clotted cream and jam, and moist and light, spicy carrot cake. Oh my goodness. So delicious! Wished we could have boxed what we didn’t eat to take back.
Then another Uber back to the hotel in a fancy sports car. It’s Saturday and we eventually determined that stores are mostly closed. Austin is looking for a book and wanted to get something to cover another large spot of shingles on his arm. The concierge said we could go to the V&A waterfront but we decided we’d wait until tomorrow when we were already planning to go.
So we decided to take another walk just from our hotel through the “company gardens”–past a group of young people singing, and through the gardens, large trees, grassy areas, statues, fountains, rose gardens, vegetable garden (and the veggies not picked!). Very beautiful, well maintained, many people, no litter, we were impressed! This is the oldest garden in Cape Town started in the 1650’s to grow produce to supply ships rounding the horn.
Some fancy buildings by the park, Parliament building, National library, museums. People were feeding the friendly squirrels including an albino squirrel.
Then back to the room, did some laundry, reading and rest.
We went up again for some wine then to dinner at the Indian restaurant again. Just delicious, I had some spicy shrimp and Austin had salmon and rice and a “salad” of chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and onions (spicy), very delicious!
Had a different wine, very delicious and juicy! All in all a very nice dinner nice to be in the hotel so right up to our room!
Sunday, May 19
A beautiful sunny day. Had poached egg and some Indian soup and tried to get extra crispy bacon, not so crispy however. Caught up on news, world, etc.
//We had a pretty unstructured day. Late morning we took an Uber to the Oranjezicht market near the V&A waterfront. This was a lively market with unusual goods for sale, veggies, and many stalls selling very unusual foods, lots of folks eating. After walking around for a while, we walked along the boardwalk by the water to the V&A waterfront area. We saw a very large yacht “Blue” belonging to a Saudi and the many shops and restaurants in the area plus the V&A Hotel.
We stopped briefly for coffee then went to an ultra modern large three-story mall to go to a book store.
We’d also purchased an ostrich eggshell which we thought would be a fun souvenir for Henry or maybe Rachel’s family. We walked all around–it was a beautiful warm sunny day.
Eventually we made our way back to the farmers market while we got iced coffee and fish and chips, very hot, freshly cooked, for lunch, yum, yum.
Instead of taking an Uber bak, we decided to walk, it was about 45 minutes, not hard to find our way. We had been warned several times about pretty theft, don’t show a lot of money, keep the cell phone in your pocket, but we didn’t feel unsafe. There were very few people around–it was Sunday and other than at the waterfront, the stores were closed.
Then caught up on the papers, etc. Because of the time zone we can’t read the papers at BF as we normally do so we have to do it later. We can get the headlines but not the replica versions of the paper copies.
//Went to the lounge for some wine. Met a couple (they’d been there last night as well) who are going on the cruise. They’d done shark diving today.
Then we hopped in an Uber to go back to the V&A waterfront to Den Anchor, a Belgian restaurant.
I’d thought we’d have nice views, but of course it’s dark–we did see the water but no view.
We had a nice light sav blanc, then a very nice fresh salad with baby greens, goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, and some cress. Then Austin had kingship fish–a white fish with mashed potatoes and I had amazing super delicious pepper steak, very nice thick cut, cooked medium rare with peppercorn sauce, So Yummy!
And blazingly hot french fries with mayo–so yummy! Really great meal, Austin loved the fish. We ended with vanilla ice cream in a parfait glass topped with whipped cream and chocolate sauce on the side, I had some too, very delicious.
The entire meal was 1300 Rand (about $16)!! Amazing! We went out to the street to call an Uber and within 15 minutes were back at the hotel, so very convenient.
Really nice day, really nice food. Cape Town is quite lovely!
Monday, May 20
Table Mountain is totally fogged in. We were fortunate on the day we chose to go that is was clear–since then there has often been fog. We slept well last night. We’d walked over 7 miles yesterday and are getting acclimated to the time change.
At breakfast there is always a selection of Indian food so I’ve been trying different things. Also today finally did get “crispy” bacon after three days of trying. The BF is nice fairly good selection, good service, they bring you your coffee; there is a menu in addition to the buffet.
//We went on a safari to Aquila. The driver was late and the van was full–12 people in total. So slightly disconcerting. But the ride was fine, we drove by acres and acres of wine vines, some shaded by nets, plus some other agricultural land. Plenty of mountains with colored granite, a tunnel. A short bathroom stop where some folks got food.
Arrival at the safari lodge at about 12:15. We “checked in”, and were led to an area of the restaurant for a buffet lunch–I concentrated on broccoli plus little Indian bean curry.
Then off in the open air vehicles, not the best because they held about 24 people, seats on each side for 2, so the viewing not maximized.
We saw hippos–briefly coming up from under water, elands, giraffes, zebras, white rhinos, water buffalo, elephants, baboons, springbok, then drove into the lion enclosure–fenced off from the rest of the park, but no lions.
Stepped for a bathroom break and drinks then our driver took us back into the lion enclosure where we saw the pride of lions–three females and a male walking down from the hills, across the road in front of us to a water hole then off to a cushy area. So cool! Of the people in our group, one couple in one of the safari vehicles ahead of us did not see them and the others in a vehicle behind us saw them laying down, but not walking so we were super lucky.
Back at the lodge some folks got snacks, but we were off by around 4 and we were the first stop, so we were back by about 6:10. As our driver approached the hotel, he was planning to go down a side street to turn around to let us off by the door, but it was blocked and we told him we could walk, it was just around the corner.
We hightailed it to the room, dumped our coats, and went right to the lounge where we had some wine. Talked a little with Linda and Paul about our cruise and another couple.
Then down to Mint, the informal restaurant, also where we have breakfast.
Service was not the best and we were tired, but oh well. Got a nice salad with micro greens, onion, tomato, olives, cheese to share, the same wine as before although they had to get it from the other restaurant so took a while, then Austin had sirloin steak and basmati rice, and I had fillet and fries, both with pepperoni sauce. Very yummy! Eventually I got some catsup, the fries were very hot and delicious. So very good meal. Took the remaining wine up to the room to finish off.
Tuesday, May 21
Onto the ship today. We were originally planning to go to the botanic gardens and tea after BF, but it is a cold foggy day, not conducive to enjoying the gardens. So we had a leisurely BF, did Wordle, read the papers and are just hanging around our beautiful and spacious room before heading to the ship, and eventually our tiny room.
We can arrive at the port at 11, not sure how the boarding/lines/waiting will work. Higher level cabins get priority but some folks have already been on this cruise starting from Singapore, so may be fewer folks getting on. It will be an experience I’m sure. Thinking we may get ourselves on the ship, then later on go off and back to the V&A waterfront area to walk around.
Very foggy day today. We were lucky to go up Table Mountain when we did. It’s been more foggy than not while we’ve been here.
//We left the Taj shortly after 11; took an Uber to the port. A short line to check in, they checked our documents, took pictures and asked health questions then we were on. We gave them our large carry on bags to take on, so we only had our smaller shoulder bags. We walked around the ship a little. The decor is “darker” than the light wood of Viking. A very small walking track around the central pool, dark wood library with windows, fitness room, small casino. We checked in at our “muster station” in the lounge where they have entertainment, got a reservation for tonight at the Polo Grill, asked about the internet, it’s “down” until 2:00. I just want to test if I will get messages while on the wifi here.
We decided to have a little lunch at the Waves grill by the pool–Austin had a nice salmon burger and I had a nice rare burger with mushrooms plus small salad and a few fries. Got a cappuccino a well.
The rooms are being released in VIP order, as of now, around 2PM, they are up to the concierge level rooms.
The people so far are fairly old, what we expected, with a few young people thrown in here and there. The Grand Dining room looks nice, lots of tables for 2 lining all the windows and scattered around. A large space, carpeted.
//Our room is fine, small as we expected and small bathroom but everything seems sufficient. We unpacked then went down to Waves to get some wine to bring back to the room to have before dinner. It seems that whenever “lunch” is being served, we can get free wine. I’d been trying to get on the internet all afternoon, but it was “down.” We found a selection of movies and TV shows we can watch, pretty small selection however. I eventually went down to the desk to ask about the internet and they ultimately told me to go out to the terminal to use that wifi, which I did and sent a message from Austin’s phone (he had the e-sim card) to mine to see if that worked, which it did.
We had to leave the ship, join a huge line and go out to the terminal to be “stamped out” of South Africa then they took our passports which we’ll get back tomorrow.
Finally I was able to open internet accounts for Austin and me but I don’t know yet if they are working, have not gotten any mail.
We’re heading to the Polo Grill tonight as we were able to snag a reservation there when we got on the ship.
//We had some wine in our room before dinner, the wine we brought back from lunch. Then we went to The Polo Grill, got a nice table by the window. We got our Villa Maria, then had hearts of palm remoulade, shredded hearts of palm served over zucchini, with a little tomato on top, then I had crab cakes which were ok plus creamed spinach, good, and onion rings, excellent; Austin had swordfish, OK, plus sad asparagus and haricot verts and got some onion rings. The portions were relatively small. I had a little key lime pie, OK, a little sweet and Austin had home made marshmallows, each with a sauce, chocolate, caramel, strawberry, very good. Our wine glasses were kept full and we took some back to the room. I headed out to get some cookies for Austin and finally found some by the coffee station in Terrace Grill.
The captain announced that there would be a lot of ship movement tonight and tomorrow due to the sea conditions.
Back in the room Austin was watching Bridge over the River Kwai.
May 22
Didn’t sleep well because the ship was quite rolly. Got up for BF fairly late so the Terrace Cafe was open. Although a buffet, they pretty much serve you everything which is slightly annoying, plus not a very large selection which is slightly annoying as well.
I had potato croquette (hash browns), one easy over egg and some bacon. Mid morning we went to a talk on the history of Namibia, the German genocide, British takeover, the selection of a democratic government.
It is cool out, not too rolly, but too cool to sit outside.
For lunch, we went again to Waves. I had a Mexican hotdog and some salad, Austin had the Swiss burger. We snagged some wine to bring back. Lazy afternoon reading and hanging around.
The internet was super slow this AM when we tried to download the papers, but seems better this afternoon. We cannot watch videos however. Attended another talk this afternoon on the “Cape Route” discovery of and sailing around the Cape. Austin is continuing to watch Bridge over the River Kwai.
Tomorrow we go to Luderitz.
May 23 Luderitz
We decided to have dinner last night at the Terrace Cafe. First we went to the Captain’s cocktail party where we had a few drinks; we went up to the Horizons lounge, I had a Passion martini with passion fruit which was good, but a little sweet. And we got wine to go back to the room. Dinner was a bit chaotic and disorganized, we wanted the grilled lobster and there wasn’t an organized line for that. However, we eventually got some plus salad, veggies, dessert, wine. The lobster was good actually, the other food fine, not memorable. We were done very quickly, just after 7. So we went back to our room, Austin turned on a movie and I read.
The entertainment doesn’t start until after 9:30 so too late for us. Plus we had to be up early, supposedly out on the pier by 7:50 and prior to that, getting passports stamped by Namibia immigration on board.
Austin went down to Waves early to see if he could get food, it was only supposed to open at 6:30 and the Terrace Cafe, full BF buffet at 7:00. I ate around 6:30–it was a pitiful continental BF with barely any choices, a little fruit, cereal, no bread or muffins, until later, a little cheese and meat.
I went into the cafe, food was being put out and I tried to avail myself but the manager said they didn’t open until 7. I said we have an early expedition and the food is out so why can’t we have it? He said he was just following “the schedule”, I said that was ridiculous, and after I walked around a little, I noticed he told them to start serving, so I was able to get some bacon, eggs and potato hash browns.
Then there was a very chaotic process to get off the ship. We’d been told that we’d be called when to come down with early expeditions first to go through immigration but it was already 7:40 and no info so we just went down. There was a huge line, we learned some folks already waited 45 minutes, and the doors weren’t open yet.
Finally they opened and a man was yelling at us and other people coming down the stairs that there was only one line and we were cutting in, but that wasn’t true. The process was quick once it started. We got onto the bus and got the first seats, then waited maybe 30 minutes before everyone ultimately showed up.
We took off 1 1/2 hour to the Desert Horse Inn where we were taken to the camping area where there were campsites, bathrooms, showers, and laundry area.
Cost $10 per night to camp. It was a warm sunny day with a little wind to keep it a little cooler. We left our jackets on the bus. The walk was fairly easy, nay folks had walking sticks. The path was mostly easy, steeper at the end, a big slanted rock to the top, and Austin did not go up there. At the top, we looked out over the landscape and saw an art installation, a horse made with rocks put on the ground.
After walking down, we were able to get drinks at the lodge, a “rock shandy” whatever that is, or beer or other. Sat around a while, I found a shop and unloaded some South African currency. I’d gotten around 1000 zar out because I thought we’d need it for tips, but turns out we used very little. I still have a little left; hopefully, I can unload it tomorrow.
We got back to the ship around 2:15 and headed straight to Waves where we got some gelato, I had chocolate and vanilla; it’s OK, not in the same league as the gelato in Italy. Then up to the room with our two glasses of wine. We have a good supply, bring up two glasses from lunch and two from dinner, Villa Maria. And we have a drink before dinner and sometimes a little after dinner.
The remainder of the afternoon was reading and catching up, sat outside on our balcony.
I went outside the ship to take a picture, got Austin on the balcony. It was a good spot as the port side was against the pier and you could see the whole ship.
Then before 5, we went up to deck 10 to watch the process of sailing away, lines down, thrusters, tug boat on aft helping.
The ship had to thread its way through a narrow channel with two boys. Also caught good views of Ludertz town as we sailed away.
We had a little wine in the room. We could see the sunset, but no green flash, because of clouds. We’d decided to eat again in the Terrace Cafe because it was having an African menu.
We went down near 6:30 and many tables were already taken. We did notice that if a couple sat at a table for 4, then maybe others would ask to join,
We got some wine, then salad and some bread sticks. After a while we went up for appetizers, local dried beef, paw paw, lime and chili slaw, springbok carpaccio. After this, we went to get our mains, periperi chicken, sausages, meat skewers, Austin got pork belly. Mostly the food was OK, good, albeit not always as hot as it should be. For dessert, I tried a little dumpling, not so good, but also cookies for Austin. It was a bit disorganized at the stations, we paced our meal well. Back in the room, Austin watched “My Girl Friday.”
May 22, Wallis Bay
Beautiful sunny day, we watched the ship dock after BF. The main buffet didn’t open until 7:30! Only a few continental items available from Waves before that.
We’re taking a bus tour, not what I originally thought but I couldn’t change it to anything else. We’ll be back at the ship early enough to spend some time in Wallis Bay (Swakupmund is too far away) but the town is more than a mile walk from the port so not sure if we’ll want to go into town, I do have about 200 zar left ($10) that I’d like to get rid of. Perhaps at our stop for refreshments there will be a shop.
//I had chosen an Oceanea tour to see the Walwichia plant, Dune 7 and moon valley. Then I thought maybe we’d prefer something else, not a big bus tour, but I wasn’t able to change it.
So we dutifully made our way to the bus trying to be ahead of the crowd, which we were, got seats near the front.
We drove to an area where there were several of these plants. When we were here before, I gave a lot of thought to doing this, but eventually decided against it as it would have taken a lot of time. So we were glad to see the plants today and our guide gave us lots of very good information on how it grows, reproduces, male and female plants, the ages of the plants, we saw one that was several hundred years old but the most famous ones are around 1000 years and much bigger. We were able to wander around before reboarding the bus. Next stop, Moon Vally, an area of low granite hills and valleys, where Mad Max Fury was filmed. Went to an overlook then drove to an oasis which had bathrooms, juice and a gift shop where I unloaded the rest of the rand, except saving some for the tip.
Then we headed back, had a quick “photo stop” at Dune 7, from the road, then back into town past the neat homes, all surrounded by low walls, presumably to keep out the sand and finally we stopped along the shore where we saw flamingoes and were able to photograph them. Lucky us and they were very pretty. So I hope everyone tipped our guide because he did a very nice job and was also very knowledgable.
Back at the ship, it was close to 3PM. Waves and Terrace were still open, however. I got a yummy chocolate milkshake and fries and Austin got an ice cream cone and ate one of the bananas I’d taken on the trip. Then catching up on reading and relaxing and going down to the immigration folks to have our passports stamped to exit the country.
Saturday, May 25
We decided to go to the main dining room last night so after our wine, we went down around 6:45. We were able to get the last window table, port side so we saw when the ship left. Dinner was fine, although we wouldn’t say it was stellar.
We started with appetizers, Austin got salmon with spicy rice and I had dried ham, parm cheese, lettuce, then he had a green salad and I had a green papaya salad which was good but not spicy as it usually is. Then we had a veal chop which was good, polenta with mascarpone cheese and some asparagus which was woefully overcooked and limp.
I headed to Terrace Cafe, which was still a mad house of people, to get some cookies for Austin; it was about 8. Back in our room, we discovered we had to turn our clocks back. So we definitely needed to watch a movie. I hose “The Taste of Things,” a French movie with Juliette Binoche, who we saw in the TV series, The New Look, she played Coco Chanel.
It’s mostly about cooking, she is a cook at a chateau, lots of time in the kitchen, prep work, and eating the dishes they make. Lots of talking about food. Beautiful shots inside and out, gardens, luxurious rooms. It was pretty long and we didn’t finish it.
Sunday, May 26
It is a lot warmer now and we were able to sit outside for BF. Quite annoying because BF food doesn’t start until 7:30 but since we have just had 2 time changes back, it feels like 9:30.
Yesterday after BF we went to a presentation about the history of Africa before slavery and some of the large kingdoms in the various areas of the continent.
I then stayed for a talk about African art which was good and Austin went up to the library to read. We had lunch at Waves again–it was definitely getting warmer then.
In the afternoon I went to a bracelet making session where we wrapped ribbon around a thin metal bracelet then thin wire wrapped over that. Austin went to a lecture about Amelia Earhart.
We were invited, as first time sailors on Oceania, to a cocktail reception before dinner in the Nautica lounge There are 170 new to Oceania passengers. I was able to order a passion fruit drink–exotic passion, which was good. There was a short presentation by the general manager who encouraged people to speak up about what they don’t like or would change and the Future Cruise Director spoke a little bit about being part of the Oceania Family and some hints about the ship. The band was playing and it was nice to have drinks with music.
We went to dinner in the Grand Restaurant, got a table by the window but it was dark out anyway. Villa Maria wine, I had shrimp cocktail and Austin had a fish ceviche, then salads, then I had NY strip steak which was tough, some steamed vegetables and fries and Austin had sea bass which he said was good. We’re not impressed with the quality of the food unfortunately.
Snagged some cookies for the room. Our clocks went back again and we watched the end of the movie.
Now we are on the correct time for the Africa ports so no more time changes for a while.
Monday, May 27
It is getting a lot warmer, hot even! After I got up yesterday I got coffee in Horizons, which also has pastries set out then made my way to the aft deck off of the Terrace Cafe. The tables under the canopy were set up but not the outside row, so I just got myself a chair cover and sat down. The table was wet; eventually, we wiped it dry and set it up for ourselves. It was warm but with a breeze, comfortable.
Not much to do yesterday. We listened to lectures on slavery in West Africa then a lecture on African textiles by Dr. Turnbill, very interesting presentation. Good lunch at Waves, I had some lobster medallions, then in the afternoon, there was a really interesting presentation about a sailing race around the world in 1968, what happened to the contestants, one man with no sailing experience looked as it he was going to win, but eventually it turned out he hadn’t been sailing all that time around the world, but just hung out in the Atlantic Ocean, then eventually he disappeared–seemed like he killed himself.
I usually have been stopping by to see if I can get a specialty reservation at the last minute, so I was able to get one for 7:30 at Polo.
We also did walking, gym, etc. We got our wine, went down to Martini’s at 6:30 to hear the pianist. There has been no music anywhere except the upper hall and the seats are usually full between 6-6:30 when we are having our wine.
When we went up to dinner, they were going to put us with another couple, but I said it was supposed to be two only, so he had us wait a few minutes and got us a nice table.
The food ended up being better than our earlier try. Austin had escargot which were in a light sauce with a little puff pastry, he thought very delicious. I had a little salad with caesar dressing. Then he had good lamb chops, I had a good filet mignon, tender, perfectly cooked. Good fries and onion rings, very bad asparagus again, good green beans.
Good service, quiet except we were near a table with a young man talking loudly and almost nonstop about his business, himself, travels, zeesh!
Back to the room, it was 9:00 (we’d snagged some cookies on the way and noted that the terrace grill was pretty empty, of course it was late). We watched some of Mamma Mia, such a fun movie, Meryl Streep so good! Today it is even warmer than yesterday at the moment cloudy and a few sprinkles.
Tuesday, May 28 Sao Tome
Yesterday was a sea day, very hot, even with the breeze. We sat outside for BF and the rest of the day was pretty uneventful.
We heard about slavery in West Africa from Dr. Sherry Hut, (website, Cruise through History) then shortly after there was a cooking demo in the lounge. The executive chef (Italian) and the executive sous chef (Indian) cooked several dishes. Unfortunately, no overhead camera so we could only see part of the activity. The two were engaging and had a nice rapport with each other. Italy vs India, cooking techniques, etc. They gave us recipes which were not completely detailed. They made butter chicken, chocolate gnocchi (!) with cocoa on it, and tuna with a nut crust, ponzu sauce, served over stir fried veggies. It was interesting. Off to Waves for lunch where I had tandoor chicken and iced coffee.
In the afternoon, two presentations, African Sculpture with Dr. Richard Turnbull, very interesting and then one on the real Robinson Crusoe, Alexander Selkirk, with James Grant-Peterkin, all very interesting.l
I walked around trying to find the art in the scavenger hunt, snagged a dinner reservation at the Italian Restaurant, Toscana, then walked around the deck for a while watching the sun go down. NO green flashes.
I spoke to Davor who called about a school board issue, the possibility of having armed guards in the school, I did not know the wifi would allow calls, then we face timed Rachel while in Martini’s and saw James and Henry, with his bandaged thumb and bandaged knee–Jeesh! Our reservation was at 7, also we went down to enjoy the 1/2 hour of music in Martini’s before dinner.
Toscana was very nice. Delicious bread with an assortment of balsamic vinegars and olive oils. I had a Caprese salad which they did with a large slow roasted tomato plus mozzarella cheese, Austin had a spinach salad. Then we shared a pasta carbonara, not authentic because the sauce had cream also, not very hot. Then I had veal scallopini with lemon sauce, good, and Austin had Dover Sole which they deboned at the table. I had tried to establish if this was truly “Dover” sole and didn’t think so from the description but now I believe it is and this will be my choice next time we eat there.
Watched a little more Mamma Mia in the room, hard to believe we haven’t finished it yet.
Today we were uncertain how the tendering situation would be. At least all the immigration was being handled by the ship. We assumed those with ship tours would get preference but we wanted to be off by 9, if we could. So we grabbed a quick BF at Waves. I had a little yogurt and muesli and a little cheese and ham on a roll.
Then at about 7:15, we want to wait in the Nautica Lounge. There weren’t hoards of people in any case and when the ship folks got there at 8, they had the “independent” passengers form a separate line and handed us color coded tickets.
What happened is they filled in the tour folks with independent folks. We ended up in the first tender so there shouldn’t have been any problem for anyone getting in.
To find our driver we had to walk through deserted buildings out to the street but he was there. It was not the head guy but another driver. He spoke English and the car was fine. However, the plan I requested was to go to a specific cocoa processing plantation and then a chocolate factory in town, filling in things along the way. This is not what we got.
We were taken to a very small processing facility near Sao Tome and a young woman showed us around but our guide had to translate. In any case, we did see all the phases, several different types of cacao, the inner seeds, the fermentation process, the sun drying process, and the hand sorting by women all sitting around on the floor of a warehouse.
So that was all interesting. Then we were taken to an old colonial plantation, two young women joined us; they told us about the men who built the plantation, cheated folks out of their land, kept a small zoo, had slaves mostly from Angola and the Congo, we saw some of the original buildings not being used today and the areas where the slaves were.
Nearby was a school where the president of the country was visiting, lots of folks were looking on.
By now, it was nearly lunch time, he drove us to another plantation processing facility, a cooperative but no one was there. It was closed for lunch. So we drove into town to the chocolate factory/store. Unfortunately there were busloads of Oceania folks there and when I asked about touring the factory, he spoke to someone and he said it was not possible today to visit. So that was disappointing. We considered staying there for coffee and gelato but after the Oceania folks left another busload came. So he drove us further into the downtown to a cafe where we shared a small sandwich, I had cappuccino and Austin a lemon drink. Total price $6.00. We’d also had to give the young woman showing us around €10 and I was “encouraged” to give something to the guide at the plantation to contribute to the school, so that was €2.
After our snack, we thought maybe we could see a vegetable market or the fish market, but he said both of these were in the morning. Austin said he’d like to see where the fishing boats came in so we drove west of town along the shoreline, saw a resort, beach, shoreline full of large rocks, lots of folks out and about, school children, then many small boats all pulled up on shore. This was all very interesting.
As we drove along the bay, we saw a lot of very poor shacks, wood, tin, outhouses, dwellings with only open window areas, no glass, lots of motor bikes, many school children walking along the road in their uniforms.
The children only attend 1/2 day of school. There is a morning session then another afternoon session, they have to share the classrooms because there are not enough.
We told us the island is food sufficient, most people eat fish, bananas and bread fruit and most people have jobs. Although we saw plenty of people just hanging around. Lots of kids, school kids and very young kids and babies.
We were back on ship by around 1:30. We headed to Waves for an ice cram cone and fruit smoothie plus snagged our wine to bring back to the room.
It is cloudy and not so hot on the ship because of the breeze. And it actually seems like it is raining on the island as we look over to it.
I had been monitoring the weather before the trip and there was rain in some places; but didn’t have any rain gear with us today, just my dry bag which I always have. I wrote a letter to the Bd of Ed member re: the armed guards situation.
I snagged a reservation for us again at Polo Grill, not our favorite, but it is quiet and more serene than the main dining room. It has been surprisingly easy to get reservations here–it’s a little strange be cause it is supposed to be so difficult. Toscana has been all booked up however.
Weds., May 29
We had our wine in Martini’s before dinner. It is not as nice as the music venues on Viking or Disney because there are always a lot of people talking.
Then off to Polo Grill. We had an excellent meal. They seated us by the window, with our chairs positioned to look out, although it was dark and we only saw a little lighted deck structures. Also, my back was to the room, not my preferred position as I always like to be able to look out at the activity. I started with caesar salad made at the table and Austin had pate inside of a pastry crust, that was weird.
Then I had prosciutto wrapped veal with lobster tail–really excellent. Small amount of lobster, the veal cooked perfectly with nice smoky flavor from the ham, on top of a smear of mashed potato puree. Austin had salmon, very delicious and cooked perfectly rare. And we had the delicious onion rings, creamed spinach, green beans. All very yummy.
Snagged some cookies from Terrace Grill which was very quiet and finally finished Mama Mia–including the credits with the actors singing various Mamma Mia songs. Great movie!
Thursday, May 30, Togo
Hot, sunny day. Docked about 7:45. Our tour starts at 8:45 and BF was nice and early at 6:30! Yea.
Yesterday we were at sea, we had four different lectures, very interesting, Sherry talked about Togo, then Ghana and Ivory Coast. Richard had a presentation on African music, and then we thad one about Charles Lindberg.
Had some pulled pork and salad for lunch. Did some reading and writing. There was a ceremony for crossing the equator, kiss the fish and water over your head. We didn’t participate but got certificates anyway.
We had some wine at Martini’s and talked to a very well traveled woman and her niece. Then dinner in the main dining room which was fine. It was quiet, we were by the windows.
We both had a baby shrimp over mashed avocado appy, then a sort of greek inspired salad with feta, olives, tomatoes over bread.
Then Dover sole meuniere, which they deboned for us at the table, delicious! I could have it every rnight. Had some nice peas, french fries, yum, yum. A god meal. Snagged some cookies for the room. Watched a little bit of “Gigi” on TV.
//After BF, we caught our bus at 8:45. I’d been hoping to get some port info to arrange our afternoon pick-up but no one had any info and no local rep.
Coming off the gangway we saw some colorful local dancers. We had two guides on board who tried to tell us about Togo history, culture, etc. but there was no microphone and it was hard to hear them.
We drove about an hour along roads and little shops, shacks, lots of people out and about, lots of motor bikes. Our first stop was a large elementary school, several concrete one story open buildings, each classroom with 60 kids. We were able to just walk around, no one gave us any data. The kids were super excited to see us and the little ones were singing and dancing.
The lessons are in French. We didn’t notice books in the classrooms. There were probably 8 buses, 30 folks each from Oceania which disgorged so many people.
Then we went to a village where we saw the king, some singing and dancing. The kings are hereditary and do weld power over the villages, handling disputes, etc. The houses were concrete but very basic, water collection from the roofs plus a well. Little kids and animals roaming around. They arranged plastic chairs for us to sit, and again, so many people.
The logistics of the buses also took a lot of time. We all had to travel together with police escort for some reason. We ended up not getting back until after 1:00.
I’d been planning a private tour to the fetish market and craft market and our guide said he would meet us at a gas station by the main gate, but it turned out no one knew where this was and we didn’t see anything while traveling out of the port. It turns out also the main gate was far from the ship so I managed to use one of the guide’s phones to call him to say he would have to meet us at the ship.
When we got back to the ship and I had wifi again, we went back and forth, could he come to the ship or not, which he said he couldn’t. While that was going on, Austin booked a massage at a reduced rate and we had some lunch, Mexican hot dog, hamburger.
Then he texted me again to say he was at the gate, so we walked out and to the gate close to the ship, but he wasn’t there, then he said we had to walk further, but we refused to go any further especially since we couldn’t even see that far and also had not seen the gas station where he was supposed to be. At the same time, there were some guys where we were who said they’d take us to the fetish market for $40 (originally I was going to pay the other guy $70 for two markets) so we decided to go with them. Plus, now we needed to be back earlier so Austin could get his message.
When we got to the market there was a lot of negotiation because they wanted to charge us $10 each just to walk around and I wasn’t supposed to take pictures either, but I refused to pay, but we were interested in bringing a voodoo doll. Our guys negotiated for us to stay for free and we got two dolls for $20,
I wanted to take pictures but most of the stuff was dried up animal heads, so sad really. The voodoo dolls were OK though.
So we didn’t stick around, a couple of folks from the ship were coming just as we were leaving. We got back in plenty of time and I was able to snag a reservation at Toscana for 7PM! They’d had none this AM, so yay!
Interesting day overall.
May 31, On our way to Sekondi-Takoradi, Ghana
We had a very nice dinner at Toscana after a little wine at Martini’s. The bar was not full so we could better enjoy the music.
After coming back to the ship yesterday, Austin got a massage and we just relaxed until time for dinner.
We had nice quiet table at Toscana facing the windows. I started with a stuffed artichoke bottom, OK, not great and Austin had spinach served with feta and olives. Then he had linguine with seafood, clam, mussels, monkfish, shrimp, very delicious, and I had gnocchi with cheese sauce, good, the sauce was too creamy. Austin had sea bass very delicious and I had roast suckling pig, very crispy skin, fall apart meat, large layer of fat which I didn’t eat and some fregola (Sardinian couscous), this was quite good. A few biscotti then back to the room, no cookies, then we finished “Gigi”.
Well, shocker, the Captain just announced we are not going to the port at all due to difficult sea conditions. This is a bummer especially because we were going to see some of the UNESCO slave sites. Our tour was with the ship so we should get a refund, but it’s sad.
Would have been better to skip Togo. Oh well. I’d read that Oceania has a reputation for skipping ports so now we have experienced it for ourselves.
June 1 Abidjan, Ivory Coast
Quiet day at sea yesterday. The cruise director did a good job of adding activities and they delivered a new activity sheet to our room.
There was a lecture by Dr. Sherry on UNESCO, how sites are chosen, types of sites, etc. Very interesting.
They also showed the movie, Dune. We didn’t go but that was a nice addition.
Mostly we read, I walked around, Austin exercised, did a little pool time, had our delicious rare hamburgers for lunch. I snagged a reservation for Toscana at 8, we thought maybe if folks were seasick there might be cancelations.
Since we were eating later, we went down to hear the classical string quartet in the lobby, that was nice.
Rachel sent me a video of Miles springs concert, Abba music–what fun! His graduation is 2 days before we get back, a bummer! Normally school is out later.
Great dinner at Toscana. Delicious fresh baby spinach salad with feta and olives, lobster risotto, then Austin had the suckling pig and I had breaded, pounded veal chop with lemon, a very common Italian dish. The was delicious, not dry at all! Better than some versions I’ve had in Italy.
No dessert, came right back to the room, a few little madeleine cookies, then lights off.
Early this AM, it was thundering and lightning flashing into our room. Now we’re just entering the harbor. Trying to find out how to meet our guide.
//Got back from our tour around 3PM. The ship was late to dock and the customs people were also late. We went down to wait in line to get off at about 7:45 and waited until after 9:00 before we got off. Then we had to find a way to the gate. Our guide kept insisting that there was a shuttle to the gate, we were not allowed to walk to the gate, but when we got off (in the rain, no less), they told us no shuttle to the gate, only to the mall. Then why couldn’t the shuttle just drop us at the gate, etc., etc. Finally they arranged a driver to take us there, it wasn’t far and then arranged for our guide, Proschia to call when she brought us back. So we were off. She was engaging, laughed a lot, and showed a lot of knowledge. Although it was a little hard to hear her.
We drove first to Grand Bassam, which is a UNESCO heritage site. This was the original colonial capital of the country in the 1800’s and has several original buildings, which are crumbling and in bad shape, but apparently can’t be renovated.
It took about an hour to get here and it was raining the whole time so tough to take pictures.
Abidjan is a large modern city but there is a lot of poverty as well. We drove along a long wide beach, this beach extends all along western Africa. What wasted potential. This is a real beautiful beach.
We drove by lots of small shacks, little markets, but also newer, nicer homes and apartment buildings. Part of the road was a new toll superhighway.
We first went to a small costume museum, which isn’t much but did contain some interesting different styles of dress for various tribes all over the county, as well as some small models of village compounds. We were the only ones there so that was nice. It was pouring rain outside.
After the museum, we drove around to see some of the other colonial buildings. We would have walked around but for the rain. We did stop briefly at couple buildings to take pictures and also at the beach.
From here we headed back to the city and as we were nearly there we saw a line of Oceania buses coming past us to Grand Bassam.
Whew! We missed them. We drove through a very upscale area of the city where some foreign embassies are located and wealthy people were in large homes behind walls. She took us to a modern office building with a shipping/restaurant area on the ground floor. We shared a 1/2 baguette with egg salad and veggies, I had cappuccino and Austin had a lime/lemon cold drink.
I think she bought us there because I’d said we didn’t need much for lunch–a sandwich and drink, wanted our food to be safe, so probably we didn’t go to a less fancy place.
It started really raining so we just drove by the cathedral, very modern and beautiful and the mosque. Then we went to a handicraft market, no crowds at all, the buses weren’t there. I picked up a couple of little coasters with lions, the national animal of the country and the name of their football team, the Elephants, Saw lots of beautiful old objects and cloth items as well.
From here we headed back to ship. We needed a ride in from the gate and our driver called the contact and they said the shuttle was coming, so we just waited.
Eventually we saw a shuttle bus which stopped, but turns out it was going to a military ship, but they say they would take us anyway. Whew! Although the actual shuttle would have eventually shown up.
While we were in Togo, I had originally planned to take a private tour to take us to some markets, this was going to be after the ship tour, but we never connected with the guide because he kept insisting we had to walk out of the gate and the gate was too far, plus we had no idea where to find him But it turns out, he made his way to the ship himself via a taxi, while we were out with the other guide and he was texting me that he had spent all this money and I just stood him up. So I offered to reimburse him for the expense of taking a taxi to the ship because that was extra expense on his part, from my perspective. So I had been trying to get money to him, but it wasn’t working, probably due to fraud controls given I was in Africa. I then tried again to get money to him, this time via PayPal and after fiddling around with it, I thought it worked, but the transaction got cancelled. So foiled again! Eventually, he got upset that my transactions didn’t work, then was upset that I was only planning to reimburse taxi expenses, when he thought I should have sent the entire amount for the whole tour. Anyway, it all ended up with him giving up and wishing me a nice life. I couldn’t do it anyway; possibly when I got back, but clearly nothing while I was on the ship.
Eventually we headed up to Horizons where there was tea service and the string quartet was playing, very nice. Early dinner tonight in Toscana at 6:30.
Sunday, June 2
Another great meal last night as Toscana. Since it was early. We went to the lobby to hear the string quartet. No seats on deck 5, but down on deck 4, lots of seating and we could hear clearly. It was quiet and nice.
Then our yummy dinner. Austin had beef carpaccio, delicious and I had the spinach salad, then he had a special spinach ravioli which cheese and I had tortellini. I had osso bucco for my main which was very good and he had Dover sole again, back in the room, he watched a little of the movie, Ferrari.
Today is not so hot, cloudy, seas very slightly roll. It was pretty rolly last night actually.
The ship took off very late yesterday because all the buses came back late, they had had a very delayed start, and weren’t back until around 6:30 when the boat was supposed to have left at 5:00. We could watch the parade of folks getting on board from our balcony.
//We had a very quiet day. This morning Dr. Turnbull gave a talk about Islam in Africa, about the religion itself, how it spread, some current issues at the point in Africa where Islam in the north meets Christianity from the south.
After this at 11, there was a presentation about Oceania, the ships, the perks, benefits o repeat sailings, and also highlights of some itineraries. After this, we had lunch again in Waves, some rare burgers, fries, iced tea and iced coffee, some salad. Took our glasses of Villa Maria back to the room.
Not much going on this afternoon. Austin may be fighting off a cold so he took a nap. I went down to James Grant-Peterkin talk about the Titanic, it was interesting. I was walking around trying to find more of the scavenger art items, still missing a few. Also, found a new book at the book exchange. We also had a very brief FaceTime with Rachel but the internet is very spotty.
Monday, June 3
Had some wine in the upper hall some music for a little while.
Dinner in main dining rom, I had some shrimp cocktail and Austin had caviar, then salad, then I had chicken kiev which was good, with delicious cured peas. Austin had salmon perfectly cooked and some risotto. A few little madeleines in the room.
This AM I had a delicious sticky bun and some strawberries. I was tired of eggs. We sat at our “normal” table next to the railing, it is never set, se we set it ourselves.
AM presentations by Dr. Sherry on Senegal and The Gambia and Richard on who owns “cultural property,” world museums or the actual countries.
Tuesday, June 4 The Gambia
Yesterday afternoon we had a presentation on the Bermuda Triangle by James. Austin napped to fight off his cold. I went to the presentation where they revealed the scavenger hunt answers. I was only missing 2 so I got 30 “O” points which you can use for merchandise, but don’t know how many you need for that.
We exercised–I walked the deck and I was able to snag another reservation at Toscana at 7PM (!!) so after wine in Martinis we headed on up.
Great meal as usual. Delicious spinach salad, Austin had tiny fried calamari–very good, then risotto, I had lasagna. Yummy! and very hot, then we both had Dover sole, deboned for us at the table, super delicious! Plus some spinach.
Great dinner. Today is warm and somewhat cloudy. We don’t start our expedition until 9:30.
We’re coming into port late. Supposed to be docked by 9, but it is 9:30 and not yet there. Pilot was late onto the ship. So one tour today is 9 1/2 hours and we’re supposed to leave at 7. Wonder how that will work. Our’s is long also, 8 hours.
Weds., June 5
We had an interesting day yesterday in The Gambia. We were in an open air vehicle, seating 24, with a thatched roof. It was fun to ride in–like a convertible! Banjul was small but we traveled through a few more urban areas. There were some paved roads but we also traveled on many clay/red dirt roads, corrugated, pot holed, up and down–a lot like roads in Namibia. 99.5% of people are Muslim so many women wear head scarves, even some pretty young girls. Some of the buildings we drove by were repurposed colonial buildings, many small shops and stands spilling out onto the sidewalks like in India. The women wore colorful kaftans or sarongs, many carried things on their heads. We saw random cows wandering around and every so often enclosures of goats, which were to be used in an upcoming Muslim holy festival. Lots more cars here than Ivory Coast and less motorcycles We drove by large natural areas with no buildings and many walled enclosures that seemed uninhabited. People live in “compounds”–walled areas with several homes to house large multi generational groups. There was garbage and filth everywhere–litter along all the roads and piles of trash all around.
Our first stop was a small open air museum with poor exhibits on native animals, plants, handicrafts and one of the guides explained a little about family life, men can have several wives, they live in separate homes. We drove to another area, past donkey carts, colorful open air markets, lots of folks walking, school children in their uniforms. They talked about palm oil and palm wine, showed how a boy climbed the palm tree, we could try the palm wine, watery liquid like coconut milk fresh from the tree or fermented into strong alcoholic drink.
Then we went to another school. We were so late that classes for the morning were finished but there were many kids around. The school has over 1100 students, 50-60 per class, AM and PM sessions. They were excited to see us, the guide had them sing the national anthem. They are taught in English which is the official language.
The seven different tribal groups all speak different languages and don’t understand each other. We saw a very sorry library with a few books a some classrooms.
After this visit, we went to an actual family compound but we and a couple others weren’t really interested so stayed in the vehicle.
Finally at around 2:30 we made it to the beach hotel for lunch. This was after traveling down a highly rutted dirt road past piles of garbage and filth. The hotel was very basic. Lunch was a little buffet in an open air building, we had cooked chicken and rice/fries, coffee, coke. It was OK and seemed safe.
The beach was beautiful, although there were some areas of trash and lots of fishing flotsam, netting, etc. sitting around. We took a little walk and found some really pretty shells. These beaches, all along the west African coast could have so much potential for beautiful resorts. Anywhere else in the world and they would be packed with fancy hotels/resorts and tourists.
We finally headed back, very bumpy as we had several detours onto small side roads because of highway construction.
iI was 5:30 when we arrived, much later than we should have, and, as turns out, there were several really late buses, the ship had extended its departure by 30 minutes to 7:30, but was still docked at 9:00 and we saw a late bus roll in. Whew! Those folks must have had a day.
Given the late arrivals, we thought we might be able to get a spot at one of the specialty restaurants, so we had some wine at Martinis then headed to Polo, but he said he throught the late arrivals would be showing up, so we then went to Toscana and he did let us have a place, and actually, by the time we left after 8, there were still at least 3 tables for 2 not occupied and 3 tables for 4, and we couldn’t see the entire room.
Austin had the beef carpaccio and I had the delicious spinach salad. Then I had lasagna again, yum. Then I had the pounded, breaded veal, very yummy and Austin had branzino. Great dinner. When we got back to our room, the gangway was still out and a bus was there. Turns out folks on the river cruise didn’t get back until 9:00!! They keep the Terrace Grill open for them, but yikes! What a long day.
Austin is still watching Gone with the Wind and I finished my book about Jews/Germans in Berlin, a group of German wives risking their lives to rescue their Jewish husbands. Based on true events.
Today, we met our group outside the ship at around 8:45 when everyone was there, four different groups walked over to the ferry to Goree Island, about 15 minutes ferry ride away.
At the island we spent into 2 groups. Our group went to a former fort, then prison, where we got an introduction to Senegal and Goree Island. The country is mostly Muslim, had been a French protectorate, has democratic government.
The signs were all in French but people speak Wolof, their native language. After an overly long intro, our guide led us along some walks to the House of Slaves, with the Door of No Return, a very famous UNESCO site from which slaves were taken to ships for transport.
It held only about 200 slaves, there were other such houses around. We walked around, took pictures, then walked to an old Christian church. From there up many rough steps/stones to a “fort” where there was one very old gun. Many of the group did not come up because it was too difficult.
Back down, a little time at a small market, then we were told we had an hour until we would get back on the ferry.
Some folks ended up just waiting, we, and others went to some of the small cafes at the dock to have something to drink–we had Fanta and expresso with milk (in a very tiny cup).
There were children madly playing in the water at the beach, we think a school group from Dakar–and we saw lots of other children getting off the ferry before we got back on to return. Everyone was trying to sell us stuff, all along the walk and at the restaurant.
The ferry finally arrived and we saw tons of people get off–way more than the total 350 the ferry could carry. Lots of school kids and other local people.
After getting back to the ship we went right up to Waves where Austin had ice tea and ice cream and I had a fruit smoothie and iced coffee and we got wine to bring back to the room.
I then headed off to catch the shuttle into town just so I could see a little of it. Many high rise buildings, lots of cars, well dressed people both in local dress and western dress. We stopped at a large park, waited a while, then took off, picked some folks up at an internet cafe (coffee shop) then back to the ship. I decided to buy a few wooden animals to give to the kids–there were many vendors selling beautiful wooden objects, and I got two stones for Miles.
Back in the room, Austin napping to try to head off his cold.
Thursday, June 6
After wine in Martini’s, we had dinner in Polo. I started with some lobster bisque and Austin had oysters Rockefeller. Then we had thin sliced tomatoes with “sweet’ onions. Austin had salmon which was good and I had filet mignon, which was tough. So far, their steaks have not been good. Great onion rings, some creamed spinach and green beans for sides.
Back in the room, we discovered we had to turn our clocks back by an hour so it was only about 8:15 instead of 9:15. Austin watched Gone With the Wind a little and I read before turning lights off early.
Today quite a bit cooler but by BF time, it was fine sitting out, aft, at our favorite table. I had some corned beef hash with my poached egg and tomato and bacon.
They don’t seem to be taking very many unusual precautions due to the rotavirus outbreak which has occurred. Just closed the library and the captain urged everyone to wash hands often and report if sick. We see more people around wiping down surfaces, but the tables were all set. We can still get our own coffee, and no other areas are closed.
Our lectures today were on Tenerife in the Canary Islands which looks beautiful and interesting; then about censorship of art/movies, etc. then about Charles Darwin and the Voyage of the Beagle. All very interesting.
I tried Philly cheesesteak for lunch which was not very good. Otherwise I’ve spent a lot of time wandering around looking for the scavenger hunt items. I only have a few left to find. A couple I know are in the locked library but others I’m stumped on.
It’s been quite rolly and between folks being sick and the ship movement, I thought I could get specialty reservations but no luck so far.
We went down to tea after Austin’s nap. They set up tables in Horizons, then when you sit, you select your choice of tea, they bring a teapot of water, then roll over a large trolly with selections of sandwiches and sweets. A better way to do it with less food waste then Viking who bring a little tiered tray to every table with all the selections, although we would tell them just to bring us a scone. So we shared a scone today, not real clotted cream like Viking, just heavy whipped cream.
Back to the room after and eventually Austin went down to the steam room–as he has done several times.
Friday, June 7, Cape Verde
We’re docked early at 7:30. Coming in, we passed by two large islands full of high mountains. It is sunny and warm and is supposed to be windy.
We had dinner in the main dining room last night, after wine in Martini’s. It didn’t seem very crowded but all the window seats were taken when we arrived so we were seated in the elevated middle section.
One good thing is that they have a very large painting there I didn’t notice before which is on the scavenger hunt!
Austin started off with a Polynesian tuna takai dish and I had a weird “spicy cheesecake” made with corn meal, not so good. Then a sort of Greek salad but way too many onions. Then I had beef tournedos, a very nice beef tenderloin cooked nicely and tender, the best steak so far on this trip. Had some sautéed spinach and french fries as well.
//We had a private tour of the island. We had breakfast, enjoying the nice weather and views of the two volcanic mountainous islands as we approached the port.
This island is extremely dry–desert-like; one of the other ones gets lots of rain and grows food.
Our guide was nice. We went into town first to a fish market, not too much here, and a vegetable market, also not very large and many stalls closed. Then we headed out of town. Unfortunately, we found ourselves behind several buses from the ship. We were following them up the mountain to the highest point to see the view.
It was windy and chilly up there and we were given some coffee and tea (fennel and mint). Could have sampled some rum as well.
Next we made our way back down and went to a pretty beach then to a little fishing town. The beaches are beautiful and clean and no development.
We saw a couple of large sea turtles rescued from the sea, one blind, the other missing a flipper, also a couple young ones which will eventually be sent back.
After this, we took the long way around to get back into town saw many houses and apartments being built. Some are owned by people who live overseas but come back for holidays.
Many are very colorful against the dull backdrop of sand. Water is a problem. There is a desalinization plant but many areas have no plumbed water so rely on trucks to fill cisterns or in town, a communal area to buy jugs of water.
There is also a golf course, all sand, the holes are mixed oil and sand and little fake turf boxes to tee off.
Back in town we went to a nice little restaurant floating in the harbor where we could see the boats in the marina. It was very nice.
Austin had some bruschetta and I had some sausages and fries, coffee and fanta. A relaxing lunch.
Then back to the ship. I walked around the deck and also still tried to find the scavenger hunt items but I’ve been foiled.
No luck getting a specialty reservation so back to the main dining room. The ship leaves at 6 and we turn our clocks forward an hour tonight.
Had wine in Martini’s. Got a window seat in the main dining room. Austin had a strange puff pastry with foie gras and I had some serrano ham, cheese, and artichokes. Then we had salads and he had spaghetti and salmon and I had a pork dish, a large pork chop on the bone, very good, not dry and with good sauce. We tried the brussels sprouts, but they were terrible–yuck! In general, the cooked veggies have been a big fail, also I had some passion fruit sorbet and Austin had some chocolate cake and passionfruit sorbet.
Saturday, June 8
A very quiet sea day, lectures on Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Mosques, and the disappearance of Malaysia flight 370–20 years ago and have recently begun to find parts washing up on some beaches.
Rare hamburgers for lunch, yum, yum.
Sunday, June 9
We ate in the main dining room last night, Austin had beef carpaccio and I had serrano ham, artichokes and parm cheese, then salads, then he had a beef dish with coconut milk curry and I had chicken with chorizo and olives, and we had some artichokes on the side.
They’d gotten my salad wrong, but were very quick to replace it. We had a nice table near the windows.
Today, another quiet sea day. It is now dark when we get up. We’re on Lisbon time, had to turn the clocks ahead last night, so we’re all caught up now.
It had even sunny with puffy clouds and a cool breeze so not so hot.
Had some corned beef hash and poached egg and bacon. Our first lecture was on Muslim mosques architecture and design and he talked a lot about the Alhambra which we’ve been to.
Lunch, Mexican hot dog for me and rare swiss burger for Austin. I found a few more scavenger hunt items, I don’t think I’m going to be able to find any more, also some are in the locked library.
James spoke about Mutiny on the Bounty. Then we had calls with Shelby and Rachel, Parker is in DC hockey tournament so Shelby, Carter, and the dogs have been at our house.
Had tea and shared a scone and listening so some nice instrumental music–a string quartet.
Monday, June 10
Coming into Tennerife.
We deduced to eat at the buffet last night and we got a seat outside on the back eck. It was a nice temperature and lovely to be able to eat outside. The buffet is pretty disorganized and they keep one of the hot food covered so you can’t tell what is there. But we had some good dishes. I had lobster, Austin had grilled fish.
Since we changed our clocks we’re waking up in darkness and sitting down on the back deck for BF we saw a really spectacular sunrise, pinks, orange reflecting clouds, really pretty.
Today for the first time when I went down the tables were not set up and they brought the placements, utensils, glasses, etc., when you get your food, this is like what Disney and when we went in after their problem with the rotavirus.
//We had a very nice expedition today. We got off the ship early and were able to get seats fairly close to the front. There were two buses goring on this trip and neither one was competing full. Our guide did a good job of keeping us away from the other bus and also he was able to give us some free time at each stop so folks could use the bathroom, quickly ship walk around, etc.
The island is not as lush as we through–at least on the south eastern did where we started. But it got better as we went to the northern coast.
We drove first to the town of La Laguna where we walked around the old town center; we also went to Garachico and after more walking around went off to see a famous tree, a Dragon Tree 1,100-1,300 years old, very famous with signs pointing to the tree. From there, we went to a very nice restaurant for lunch, sitting outside, very pleasant, vegetable soup, bread, chicken, tiny potatoes ice cream, wine, water, coffee. It was quite pleasant. Finally, we went to Puerto de la rue to walk around–this is a big resort city, tourists around, saltwater pools by the sea, very modern, clean and pretty. All the towns have been clean and pretty with palm trees, plants and flowers. The weather was nice, started out a little chilly but once we went north it was quite sunny and warm. Our guide gave us lots of information on history, geology (volcanic and an eruption in 18thC which covered some town, politics, botany, etc. He was quite informative and gave us many reminders to keep to the time schedule and he did give us the era walking around time which was nice.
Our group also did nod a good job of being on time. We got back to the ship by 4:30 which was on the schedule.
Austin is a little under the weather and we’re hoping he doesn’t have the norovirus, if so, I’ll probably get it too. And we’re coming up on two more days of port tours!
Special Terrace Cafe menu tonight tapas Spanish food, etc.
Monday, June 11 Arrecife
We had a nice dinner last night at Terrace Cafe, sitting outside the restaurant. There were a large variety of tapas and Spanish themed dishes, I had some grilled shrimp Iberian ham, croquettes, Marinated asparagus and artichokes, meatball, rope vieja, and churros for desert, yum.
When we were almost finished they actually ran out of Villa Maria but they assured us there would be one tonight, probably they ran out of chilled wine.
We’re docked early at Arricife. It is a bit chilly and cloudy so we sat inside. We’re meeting a guide today for pick up to go on a walk last the volcano and I have been going back and forth about where to meet, etc., but now we’re here and I’m fairly sure I know where to go.
Originally, I’d thought we might rent a car and travel around to see some of the art sights of Cesar Manrique but it didn’t ultimately seem like a good idea to rent a car, e.g., people said the cars are not always available at the pier, you might have to go to the airport, etc. So this walk seemed like a good alternative.
Weds., June 12, Agidir
We had an interesting time Tuesday on our volcano walk. We found Raquel right where she said she would be then picked up 6 more people, 4 of them were French speaking so the dialogue during the walk was in French and English.
We walked along lava flows and up a small volcano where we could see into the cauldron which was cool.
She explained a lot about volcanos, type of law, smooth or rocky, volcano tunnels, the area where we were had five volcanos erupt in the mid 18th century and the lava covered up villages, then another eruption in the 1800’s with more lava flows. There are lichens growing in areas of old lava and a few other plants, some ancient fig trees which grow low to the ground due to the wind, rabbits which lie in the lava holes. Mot of the walk was leel but we did a little climbing up the volcano. Some of the footing ws deplore lave rock which was a bit like walking on sand. It was waarmbut with a very strong wind with almost blew utopia over.
Lanzarote is extremely dry, mostly volcanic landscape and the buildings are all white, due to the artist Cesar Manique who did much art work around the island and felt tings should be left in a natural state and use the landscape to shape. They grow grapes for wine, these were also very low to the ground and protected by half circle low volcanic rock walls to protect from the wind.
The island was pristine clean, also has some lovely beaches and the town of Arrifife was charming.
We had bananas, water and a chocolate snack before ending the walk. When we got back to the ship we had some ive cream, then later on had tea and scone.
Dinner wa at Tuscan, it was till light out with the sun not setting until late. Putin had the beef carpaccio and I had the spinach salad, then we had ravioli with beef and a little wine sauce, then the delicious Dover sole. Aston had a chocolate lava cake and ice cream for dessert and I HAD TIRAMISU WITH RASPBERRIES. AL YUMMY!
//Today we took a “small group” tour to Taurandant. Same tour as the big bus, but a small group, in a van. We drove through the city of Agidir, he said it was a new city because much was destroyed in an earthquake.
Then through desert landscapes–stuco home surrounded yh stucco walls, new highways. Stopped briefly to see the goats in trees, then went into the walled area of Taurandant where the souk is. Before going to the souk, we went to a Ryad (open as a hotel), with a lovely central courtyard, fountain, banana tree, flower, pool, and we had coffee/tea/soda/cookies, a little respite before heading out. We wandered for quite a while in and amongst the various stalls, both outside, and in a building, food, veggies, spices, fish, clothing, chacham, all kinds of thing. Very colorful and vibrant. Most women were in kaftans and heads covered although not all. Some younger women in jean but heads covered. Men, as usual, wearing whatever they wanted. Saw very few full face covering. No burkas, but some face covers except the eyes.
We stopped by a large ship with two levels selling many different types of things and here we were free to walk around and buy things.
After this, we went to a shop selling Argan oil where there were some demonstrating the process, hand grinding to extract the oil. Not sure I believe this isn’t done by machines these days. Then back to the ship, a quick milkshake, hot dog, then later some tea.
Hard to believe we only have one day let., We dine in Palo tonight so that’ fund.
Friday, June 13 Good-by to Portugal
Interesting that our cabin is on the port side and normally we want starboard but we have more often docked on this side which gives us views of the city and the port activity. Right now they are setting up a conveyor belt to take off the luggage. We’ve been here since around 6:30 and people can get off between 8-9.
There is another cruise ship here but luckily their passengers are already getting off.
because we will need to get a taxi to the airport. It is a lovely sunny day and very pretty coming into Lisbon with the early morning sun.
Yesterday was a quiet sea day. We had lectures by Sherry on Lisbon, Richard on Portugal and its empires abroad and James on Operation Mincemeat.
The scavenger hunt answer came at 4:45 and there was just one–some tiles in the cafe that I didn’t get–duh–they were there in plain sight but mostly on the side that we never go down.
Then I stood in a long line to “reclaim” my “O” points which I’d won for the scavenger hunt–people also got these for trivia contests, Mensa, etc. They had a variety of clothing, hats, and small items like luggage tags–surprisingly I had 60 points for the two scavenger hunts, enough for a polo shirt, hat or umbrella–I chose the umbrella. People were excited to be getting merchandise.
During the day and while waiting in line, I finished a book by James Peterson and Bill Clinton about the President’s daughter being kidnapped. It was fluff but sort of interesting to read about secret service, SEALS, Black hawk helicoptors, etc.
We were able to get one last reservation at Polo, I’d stopped in late AM, nothing, and he told me to try later, I was walking by in the afternoon and he called myhname, aid he’s just tried to call me and we could have a reservation a 7:30 in Polo, so yeah! After our wine in Martini’s, we headed up, we got a lovely table right at the back so we could see the wake. The sun was still up, and not set until after 9:00. I tried the onion soup, Austin had escargot, then I had caesar salad, he had tomatoes and onion salad then strip steak, and I had prime rib, a very large portion, 16 oz!
It was good, cooked nicely. A very nice dinner. Good sleep, the rocking and rolling had diminished considerably as the day went on.
Today, up at 6, ship slowly moving up the river past Lisbon. Another ship docked here, the Norwegian Viva. Nice BF out on the back, temperature fine. Our flight is at 12:45 so we have plenty of time to get to the airport. I can see a long row of taxi’s and the other ship is disembarking so it seems there won’t be a problem getting one. We have to be out of our room by 8, off the ship by 9, so we’re just going to hang around until then, otherwise we just have to hang around the airport.
//On board TAP 201 to EWR
It wud quite a process getting here. We were waiting in the lounge, but the gangway was delayed and instead of waiting to leave at 9; we decided to line up at about 8:15 to get off. Good think.
Large crowds getting off our ship and the Norwegian ship was also disembarking sea t this point the line for cabs was quite long. We waiting close to 45 min. Then delays getting out of the taxi area until finally off to the airport €48, I thought it was going to be €22 but can
‘t negotiate at this point.
The airport was very confusing. We’d already checked in but walked around a while to find the gates, short lines for security, we then passed a lounge but hadn’t gone through immigration yet, we asked at the lounge if there was one closer to the gates, which I had read, so yes, so we headed to immigration. Tried the automatic gates after waiting but these didn’t work because we’d been on a cruise, so over to the regular lines, more waiting, although overall not too bad. Then to the lounge, small but we found a seat. Had cappuccino and a natal pistel, the famous Lisbon pastry, yum, yum.
Then down to the gate–checked passports again, then turns out we were in gate 43,
austin saw the sign for Chicago O’Hare instead of 43A (right to next door). So back there, no wait to get inl. Then down to a bus, more waiting, then out to the plane, the bus stopped but we had to wait again a while for the door to open. Josh! Finally on board 2E and 4E (seats in between are doubles not singles).